Straw Chopper Frequently Asked Questions

 

MAV STRAW CHOPPER FAQ (9 ENTRIES)

  • HP requirement is related to type and volume of straw, how fine the cut is, as well as moisture conditions. As a result it will vary continually. On any given day the same chopper could require as little as 20hp or upwards of 60hp.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • The MAV chopper can spread as narrow as 20-25 feet. To accomplish this the tailboard should be lowered considerably. Under ideal conditions the chopper will spread 42 feet. To accomplish this, the chopper must be adjusted to cut medium length straw, it must be running full,and it must be fed uniformly, especially to the outer edges.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • It varies drastically due to cutting conditions, crop conditions, soil types, etc.. The typical life of a heat treated blade is approximately 350 hours. The carbide coated blade has a life approximately 1.5x the life of the heat treated blade.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • No, by replacing ALL the blades the rotor should be fully balanced.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Yes, all MAV complete choppers spread the straw with the chaff unless noted as "Straw Only". Spreading the chaff with the straw is accomplished by adding an extension to the sieve that allows the chaff to continue into the MAV chopper.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Yes, it can be done. There are some modifications that must be done on the MAV series choppers to accomplish this. The Redekop Option: Feed Spout must be mounted on your Redekop MAV chopper and secured in place.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • No, you must have a Redekop Chopper or a Redekop Upgrade Rotor to use the Redekop chopper blades.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Redekop’s MAV technology cuts through flax without a problem. However blades will wear faster in flax. Carbide blades are recommended because they keep a sharpened edge even when slightly worn. The knifbar should be locked into full upward position using extra hole.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • In corn the chopper must run at a slower speed using a slow speed drive kit (Listed under "Available Options"). The stationary blades must be pulled out of the chopper housing while only the rotor blades dice up the husks and stocks.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

 

 

TROUBLESHOOTING (11 ENTRIES)

  • If a blade breaks due to a foreign object coming through the chopper always replace blades two pairs at a time, directly opposite each other through the center of the rotor. This should maintain rotor balance. Never replace only one blade for wear or breakage.

    Last updated on Jun 10, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • If a blade breaks and the chopper must be operated without a replacement, then the damaged blade and the one directly opposite it must both be removed to maintain rotor balance.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Check for adequate clearance between the installed blades and the stationary blades. A minimum of 1/4” is required. Check clearance of all blades, even those that are not replaced. Do not operate the straw chopper unless this clearance is maintained for all blades.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Check that the stationary blades are centered in the middle of the slots in the chopper floor. If they are not the knife bar must be moved over.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • If you do not have sufficient clearance and the stationary blades are in the position specified in point #4 the rotor must be moved over. Remove all shields to access the rotor bearings and loosen bolts. Shift the rotor over slightly and check for blade clearance. Retighten bolts making sure the rotor does not get pulled over to one side in the process. Retorque bolts to specifi cations.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Check your rotor blades and flip or replace them if necessary. Tough conditions will also play a factor in how well the chopper is or isn’t cutting sufficiently.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Adjust the tailboard fins. Check that the internal deflector fins are positioned correctly so that all residue will be evenly distributed across the width of the chopper. Single rotary combines must have the straw redirected before it reaches the chopper to accomplish even spread. In most cases, rowing results because the straw from the 2nd and 3rd fin from the outside, lays straw on top of that from the outside fin. Adjust these fins inward. To get a good view of the problem it helps to stand on the back of the combine and look down at the chopper.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • The rotor serial number (A) is located on the rotor, on the drive end, in line with the shaft keyway. The straw chopper serial number (B) is located on the chopper wall, on the non-drive side, just behind the speed sensor monitor bracket.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Make sure the drive sheaves are aligned and check the tension of your belt. If the belts are too loose you’ll get insufficient traction and wear the belts; if the belts are too tight there will be excess wear on the belt and on the sheave; check for sheave wear. If the sheaves are aligned and the belts are not worn, check for wear on the sheave as the next possibility. If belt is slipping because of extra tough conditions tilt stationary blades out until chopper belt cools down.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • Determine where the chaff is coming from and redirect chaff flow away from the belt.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor

  • A good place to start with green straw is to put the stationary blades in about 1/2 - 3/4 inch in in relation to the chopper floor. This will allow some chopping that will help prevent windrowing by letting the straw flow through the tailboard better. These settings provide minimal chopping & minimal power usage for tough conditions.

    Last updated on May 27, 2011 by strawchopper editor